Saturday, February 11, 2012

What we eat

Hello all!
Sorry it’s been a little while since I posted last.  A lot of you were asking about the food here.  The food is pretty good (most of the time).  The meals are all made by our dedicated house staff.  I thought though to give you a sampling of the food we eat here that I’d document a couple of days worth of meals.  So here they are. Also, I forgot to include photographs but after every lunch and dinner we get dessert, which is usually fresh fruit or fresh fruit juice, occassionally we get a special dish like the pumpkin and milk (like vanilla pudding) dish which was amazing!
Bon Appetite!

Day 1
Breakfast-  Tamea (like falafel but made from fava beans) with tomatoes, onions and peppers sandwich, a soft feta like cheese sandwich, green onion, and tea.

Lunch- Ground gamossa (water buffalo, tastes like beef) casserole with peppers, rice, salad (tomato, onion, cilantro, peppers) and grilled pepper with tahini sauce. 

Dinner- Vegetable soup

Macaroni with tomato sauce, sausages, tomatoes and bread


Day 2
Breakfast- Egg sandwich, cheese sandwich with tomatoes, tea

Lunch- Fried chicken cutlet, rice, white beans in tomato sauce, white beans in a strange white sauce (mayo based?), salad

Dinner- Lentil Soup (the best thing EVER!)

Ground gamossa and cheese casserole, potato stuffed with rice and gamossa, carrot stuffed with rice and gamossa, tomato


Day 3
Breakfast- Ful (pronounced fool, mashed fava beans), cheese and cucumber sandwich, green onion and tea.

Lunch- Chicken, rice, salad, carrots and peas in tomato sauce

Dinner- Orzo soup

egg dish (kind of like a quiche), leven bread, homemade potato chips, pickled carrots,


Tuesday, January 31, 2012

A Day in the Life

Hello all,
I’m back with a new post.  I’ve been thinking of a number of things to talk about on the blog, but today I’ve decided to write a blog called “A Day in the Life.”  This is essentially about what our day to day life is like here at Abydos so here it goes.  (For those of you who are wondering all times are of course local, Egypt is 7 hours ahead of New York, 9 ahead of Denver.)

5:00-5:30 AM: Somewhere around 5am the call to pray is played in the nearby village.  This comes from every mosque, and there are probably dozens in town.  This works as a pretty effective wake up call.  I then head to the bath room, brush my teeth, get dressed etc. 

5:45-6:00 AM: People usually gather in the suffra (living/dining room) and drink coffee, tea and eat the variety of snack foods available to us, often mumbling good mornings to those around us. 

6:00 AM: Matt Adams (our director) yells “CART!” indicating that the cart has arrived.  The entire team goes to the lab where we gather our supplies for the day and load them onto the cart. 

6:00-6:20 AM: It’s back to the suffra for more coffee and getting ready to head out to the field. 

6:20 AM: Matt calls “Yallah-bina” and those of us who work in the field gather and head on out.  It’s a swift climb up the large dune directly to the north of the dig house before arriving at the dig site.  When we arrive the Reis and the Quftis (the managers of our local workforce) are standing in a line.  We work our way down the line shaking hands with each person and saying good morning. 

6:30ish:  Matt and Michelle (the deputy director) walk the site with the Reis (the director of the Egyptian workers) and inspect it for any “activity” that might have occurred during the night.  Once the inspection is done it’s time to get to work.  Normally for me the first step is to set up my measuring tapes at the edge of the unit, many any corrections to my map and then plan my attack for the day (I’ll describe exactly how we do archaeology at Abydos in a future blog).  Then we start digging.  Normally in the next hour or so cups of Egyptian tea are brought for the Reis, Quftis and the American team members.  For those of you who have never experienced it, Egyptian tea is very sweet and very hot and is not made with a tea bag, meaning that the bottom is always a dense mix of tea and tea leaves.  This always hits the spot though.  The dig site also offers an amazing place to watch the sunrise.  
Sunrise


9:00 AM: The Reis blows a whistle and all the Egyptian workers drop what they’re doing and run to the plastic bags they have stashed all over the site, it’s time for breakfast.  For us that means that we make our way to the hema, a small hut made out of plant stalks. 
The Hema

We sit on a woven mat on the floor to eat.  Singeb, one of our house staff rides out every morning on his donkey with a cooler full of food.  We sit around in the hema and eat our breakfast, drink our coffee and tea and talk. 
Breakfast


9:30: The Reis blows the whistle again and it’s back to work. Before heading back to work the donkey gets a treat, a handful of sugar. 
Singeb on Moussa, the new Donkey



11:00 AM: The Reis blows his whistle again and it’s time for the water break.  This gives me a chance to catch up on work or take a look at my work area without it being full of workers and to figure out the different stratigraphic areas at work in the unit.  The break only lasts about 20 minutes.

Water Break for the Egyptians

1:00 PM: Generally around 1 I begin finishing whatever it is I’ve been working on today and have my Egyptian team sweep the unit.  This is all in preparation for closing photographs. 

  
Greg Takes Closing Photos


1:15 PM: Greg, our team photographer, comes around with a giant ladder and takes closing photographs of each unit.  We do this every day as a way of documenting the work done during the day. 
The cart loaded with our supplies ready to go back to the house
 
During this time we load the cart back up with all our supplies and anything we found during the day.  Once all the units have been photographed (around 1:30 or so) we head back to the house.  Usually I grab a beer once I’m in the door and sit in the suffra to relax, or check my email.

Team Members Enjoy their Afternoon Free Time


1:45 PM: Matt once again shouts “CART!” and the entire team files into the courtyard to unload the donkey cart which has arrived and carrying it into the lab. 

2:00 PM: Singeb rings a bell and everyone rushes back into the suffra for lunch. 
The Suffra (the dinning room side)


2:45-4:30: After lunch we have free time, which you can use however you want.  Some people read, some work on their computers, some sleep, some sit in the courtyard and talk, others take showers.  I tend to do any one of these depending on my mood (or to be frank, how tired I am).  Today I’m writing a blog, right now in fact!
The Suffra (Living Room Side)

4:30-6:30: Lab hours.  During these two hours we work in the lab.  For excavators such as myself there are a number of tasks to accomplish.  I have to make sure all my artifacts are correctly tagged and send them to the right place.  If I have any objects that were sent to conservation I stop by and see how they are doing.  I then update my dig journal for the day and calculate the elevations I took throughout the day.  The last duty of the day is to draw a basic map for my day plan for tomorrow.  Every day I have to keep a precise plan of my excavation area in 1/100 scale (meters).  It’s best to draw a basic plan (just the architectural features, etc.) the night before, that way you have the template ready to go. 
Lab Hours
7:00: At 7 Singeb rings the dinner bell and we all file into the suffra once again for dinner.   Afterwards we have the evening free.  Many evenings I return to the lab to complete my work for the day, sometimes I read, call family on skype, take a shower.  Some nights we show a movie in one of the back storerooms using a digital projector.  Depending on how tired I am I normally fall asleep between 9 and 11 most nights (yeah I know that’s early but did you read what time I wake up in the morning!) and prepare for another day of the same schedule

We do this every day except Fridays, which are our days off.  On Fridays we either get to relax or have some activity or trip planned.  Last Friday a bunch of us went to the Seti I temple nearby for a few hours and I caught up on some work.  And that’s pretty much it, my amazing crazy and busy day. 


Saturday, January 28, 2012

Apologies and an Update

Hello everyone
I apologize for my absence.  The Internet on site has not been as good as I remember and I've been horribly backlogged with artifact tags (which is a good thing) ...but today we got DSL installed and I got caught up on all my field work stuff.  I am going to try and write a new blog about how things have been since I've gotten back to Abydos tomorrow, for now I just want to say that I'm doing very well, field work is going very well, although I have made a few mistakes it's just a bit of a learning curve as I get used to how things work here, and its fairly difficult to manage a group of people when you don't speak their language and they don't speak your language (its amazing though how drawing a line in the sand, pointing and saying "Remove only ten centimeters" in Arabic can get you what you want).  I'm getting along very well with the people here and the food is just as good (and bad as I remember). 

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Some Background

            Welcome back to my blog.  I thought a good place to start before I leave is to give a brief survey of the history of Abydos. 

            Abydos is a site located in Upper (southern) Egypt approximately 270 miles (433 kilometers) south of Cairo.  The site is located on the western side of the Nile River below a series of steep cliffs rising out of the desert.  The primary ancient site is located near the edge of the cultivation (the area where water easily flows by means of canals from the Nile) and the low desert.  The area above these dramatic cliffs is called the high desert.  Directly above the site is a wadi, a dry prehistoric river bed that cuts a canyon through the cliffs.  Ancient Egyptians apparently believed that this wadi was the entrance to the underworld which they believed lay beyond the western horizon (where the sun set each evening).    
The Wadi and the Cliffs above Abydos

Abydos throughout most of Egyptian history was one of the culture’s key funerary sites from at least 3,300 BCE until well into the 1st Century CE, almost 3,400 years due primarily to the fact that it was the home of the temple of the funerary god Osiris, Yet even before Osiris came to be worshiped at the site Khenty-Imentyw, an early dog headed god who was later assimilated into an aspect of Osiris, was the chief funerary of Abydos.  Most ancient Egyptians strove to make a pilgrimage to Abydos and the temple of Osiris at least once in their life, and many had this pilgrimage depicted on the walls of their tombs.  Several kings, particularly Seti I and Ramses II, built large temples dedicated to themselves as a manifestation of Osiris at Abydos.  Over the thousands of years that the site was in use countless monuments (tombs, temples, shrines, etc.) were built across the landscape.  Many of these monuments were built on top of earlier structures, creating a rather complex archaeological site.

Satellite view of Abydos from Google Earth
1. The Wadi,    2. Royal Tombs at Umm el-Gaab   3. The North Cemetery   4. The Middle Cemetery
5. Remains of Early 18th Dynasty Pyramid of Ahmose  Area in Box- Detail in Next Map

Most important for this blog are the Early Dynastic remains.  These remains date to the 1st and 2nd Dynasties (2950-2650 BCE), a period when the first kings were establishing the political and cultural traditions that would dominate ancient Egypt for the rest of its long history. These early kings were particularly active at Abydos.  One of the more important building activities that these early kings participated in was the construction of their tombs near the opening of the wadi in an area which is now called Umm el-Gaab (“Mother of Pots” in Arabic).  In these tombs archaeologists have found some of the world’s earliest examples of writing.

Satellite view of Abydos from Google Earth
1. Expedition Dig House   2. The Shuneh   3. The North Cemetery   4. Portal Temple of Ramses II  5. Osiris Temple Site   6. Ancient Town Site   7. Middle Cemetery   8. German Expedition House 
9. Temple of Ramses II   10. Temple of Seti I   11.  Modern Coptic (Christian) Cemetery

A short distance away near the edge of the cultivation is the site of the “Royal Enclosures” (also called “Royal Funerary Enclosures”).  These monuments were large rectangular walled enclosures made of mudbrick (unbaked bricks made of Nile silt mixed with sand, water and straw, not unlike adobe of the American Southwest).  All the monuments were built in an area now called the North Cemetery, which was only a short distance from the ancient town site and the site of the main temple (first dedicated to Khenty-Imentyw and then later Osiris).  This site was perhaps chosen as it was the highest spot in the low desert of Abydos.  Of the dozens of enclosures only one remained intact until modern time, the enclosure of Khasekhemwy (ca. 2650 BCE) the last pharaoh of the Second Dynasty.  This monumental structure, known as the Shunet ez-Zebib (or simply The Shuneh) is the focus of the Institute of Fine Arts (IFA) excavations and conservation at Abydos. 
Early excavators believed that these enclosures were directly related to the tombs of these kings located only a short distance away.  While it was originally believed that the other enclosures simply collapsed, recent excavations by the PYIFA (Penn Yale IFA) expedition have demonstrated that each enclosure was ritually demolished.  With this in mind it is now believed that these enclosures were not built solely for the funerary purposes, but were rather built during the life of the king and used during important kingship rituals during his life.  When the king died the monuments were ritually destroyed, perhaps in an attempt to “kill” the structure and bring it into the afterlife with the king.  Alongside these enclosures were buried a large number of retainers (servants), animals and in one case a fleet of boats, all apparently intended to accompany the king into the afterlife.   
The Enclosure of Khasekhemwy (the Shunet ez-Zebib or the Shuneh)

For some reason though the enclosure of Khasekhemwy was never destroyed.  It has been suggested that this marks a transition in the thought process of ancient Egyptians, a shift towards the concept of the indestructible and the monumental.  Indeed Khasekhemwy’s successor, Djoser, built one of Egypt’s first stone monuments, which also happened to be the first pyramid.  This shift from mudbrick to stone, and from monuments designed to be destroyed to ones that were meant to last forever is one of the greatest changes in Egyptian thought and would dominate Egyptian construction for the next two millennium.  Perhaps the fact that the Shuneh was never destroyed is a symptom of this change in mind set. 
As the last remaining royal enclosure, and the monument occupying the high ground at the site, the Shuneh remained one of the most important monuments in the ritual landscape at Abydos.  As such there are a lot of questions that need to be answered, not only about the initial use of the structure, but also about its continued use.